Leaving Kathmandu was trying. The guesthouse charged me more than was posted on their website, claiming my tiny room with a cracked bed and broken taps was the deluxe room. Usually the best way to book onward transport, they sold me a bus ticket for a nice, shiney, A/C bus. It turned out to be a sideways bench seat up near the driver, with no A/C, and extra heat and noise from the engine. It's hot here. Too hot to wear socks and shoes. I wonder why I bought the recommended thermals and down jacket yesterday.
In addition, it looks like I got it all wrong, and am here at a bad time of year. The air is very dirty, for all 7 hours of the bus ride from Kathmandu, and at the base of the mountains. The lake and sunset were nice, but it's hard to ignore the thick brown haze and trash-lined lake shore. None of the trekking operators have groups leaving soon. Most people come in the fall, and book with an already-assembled group of friends from home. The recommended outfit I contacted in advanced proposed an expensive trek with a guide all to myself. I may not need a guide at all. The trail is marked, with hotels, food amd water all along the route. It sounds like a beaten path, Nepali Appalacian Trail. But, it seems foolish to go alone. I'll wait and try my luck finding partners from one of the online bulletins. I feel totally discouraged, dirty, lonely, and want to bag the whole thing. I can get gorgeous mountains with nice trees and clean air in Northern California.
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