Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Jodhpur - the colorful city

Jodhpur is lovely and its favorite color is blue! I'm having a ball wandering up and down the meandering streets and alleyways, some loud and bustling, others quiet, others steep and winding. Jodhpur is all about color, beauty and courtyards. Fort Mehrangarth itself is an immense labyrinth of courtyards set within courtyards, layer upon layer, like an onion, most to protect noble women from the glance of men. Common houses, too, often start with an outer wall, with multuple families living on 2 or 3 floors of a u-shaped home complex set around an inner courtyard. I believe the layers of walls create shade and encourage breezes. The indigo blue color predominates, and is said to repel insects. Jodhpur buildings have many colors. I also see turquoise, pink, peach, white, yellow, orange and red, several colors of houses in a row.
I transcribed a poetic part of the Fort's audio guide, to do with color, that I really enjoyed: "In direct contrast to the barren plains of Rajasthan, and no doubt because of it, there's a collidescope of color in dresses, shawls, and the swirl of men's turbans. Here, on the edge of the Thar dessert, deep shades of red and blue, dazzling yellows, bright oranges, and cool greens stand out vividly. In Rajpur courts, color was so much a part of life that it became quite complex and formal. There are colors for different seasons, particular colors for festivals, darker colors for cooler months, and in July, when the summer heat is at its fiercest, nobility dons the color of clouds in expectation of the life-giving monsoon. At the harvest festival of Holi, everyone rejoyces in robes of red and white. And at Diwali, men and women in the richest hughes of peacock blue gather to watch the fireworks to celebrate the triumph of good over evil. Brides in elaborate and auspicious red wedding dresses marry grooms in saffron turbans. Saffron is sacred to the Rajpurth and is always worn for that final battle charge, never to return. And there are colors for death, too. Bodies are shrouded in white and mourners wear white, or a dull green, or dull blue, or khaki. And on the day when mourning is lifted, the bidding will appear in the palest of pink turbans."

No comments:

Post a Comment