I've spent more time on a train in the last 2 days than off. Went from Puri to Visakhapatnam (aka "Visag"), hoping to take a picturesque little train ride to Araku. Visag turned out to be a crumbling, dusty, difficult city I didn't want to wait around in. I arrived late from Puri and missed dinner, opting not to eat the food available on the train. I don't think people wash their hands, and touching food while it's cooking, while serving, and while eating is common. I've had a tummy ache and gas for the past day or so. I managed to get some "breakfast", like a tortilla and a tiny bowl of curry stuff, and booked a plane ticket to the Andaman islands at an internet cafe just seconds before the power cut out, which it does in Visag every day for at least an hour. I went to several ticket counters before someone would sell me a train ticket to Chennai that day, without an assigned seat; 195 rupees. Understanding where and how to buy a ticket, the info printed on the ticket, the board, and the PA are all challenging. I got some Veg Biryani and a Sprite at the train cafe which had AC! I was surprised to.see a sitdown cafe in the first place. The TV was on and I saw part of a cricket match and funny commercials for home improvement loans and cell phones. I saw a full-face covered muslim woman remove her zoro mask to eat, in a restaurant full of unknown men. I saw a billboarde advertising a bank account for women, to "manage your funds on your own".
When boarding the train, I asked a local guy where to sit, and took an empty bunk in a sleeper car (all are sleeper cars). At about 6pm, another passenger kicked me out of.my spot, so I moved to the adjacent bunk, where my big bag somehow fell down to the floor, nearly hitting a man with a little girl sleeping on his lap. A ticket inspector told me to go up the wagon a ways to get an assigned seat drom his coworker. I didn't understand where to go, nor did I identify anyone as a seat assigning employee. I walked almost the whole length of the train, past the kitchen (not eating, good decision!) and through several upper class cars with AC. A ticket agent there told me to buzz off, his area was full, obviously. I crawled all the way back, past lots of dirty people who stay in the spaces between the cars, and found the right guy. After searching his dot-matrix printouts, he sold me a 140 rupee supplement ticket, and stapled a little paper to my ticket, and I went to find my bunk among other young, Indian women. We should arrive in Chennai by 5am. The young guy across from us was reading a book, looked intelligent and friendly. He ate his rice and sauced chicken dinner expertly with the tips of the fingers on his right hand.
Monday, February 25, 2013
Trains and trains to Chennai
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